Liming in the Windies

You know you are going to have a good time somewhere, when, you not only find yourself on a deserted Caribbean beach at 10am on a Sunday morning, but when you find the only other person around, who happens to be selling drinks and ask her  for a bottle of water, she fixes you with a blank look and says; "Tis Sunday, people only be drinking beer." Beer it is. And that pretty much sets the tone of our week in St Vincent and the Grenadines. 

A small cluster if islands in the Caribbean sea, the SVGs are about an hour's flight from Barbados on the tiniest plane imaginable. We were pratically sitting in the cockpit and had to be weighed before boarding.

The islands include Bequia (where we're staying), Mustique, Canouan, Union, and St Vincent. Bequia (pronounced 'bek-way') is a tiny island community of just 7 square miles. Like all the Grenadine islands it is hilly, lush and green, much more like a south-east Asian island than the super-flat Bahamas. It doesn't long for us to be peppered by mossie bites.

From the airport we're driven by pick-up truck to the villa where we have rented a small studio overlooking Princess Margaret Beach. The beach was originally named after some guy called Tony until Princess Margaret visited Bequia on her honeymoon and fell in love with the beach. So the people of Bequia decided to name it after her instead. I expect Tony was gutted because it is a beautiful beach indeed - a crescent of soft golden sand fringed by frangipani trees and leading down to sparkling clear turqoise sea. If it was good enough for Margs, it certainly suits us.

The snorkelling off the reef near the beach is great, we spot a couple of octopi, Moray eels, lots of brightly-coloured fish and large staghorn corals. The visibility is amazing.

Bequia is very pretty island - pastel-coloured houses and shacks dot the hillside and there are lots of catarmarans and yachts bobbing anchored off the shore. Most people actually sail to Bequia rather than fly. Turns out it's a popular destination where yachtie-types come to relax after exhausting sailing regattas and general stresses of floating around the Caribbean for weeks on end. Walking around the little main town of Port Elizabeth it's easy to spot the yachties, they all have fantastic suntans and can be overheard saying things like: "We've just anchored in the SVGs from the BVIs and the USVIs". 

All the locals are very friendly. We quickly discover that the favourite pastime is 'liming'. To 'lime' basically means just hanging out doing nothing, maybe with your mates or on your own, usually in the shade of a tree, for hours on end, maybe drinking beer, maybe not. Just chilling out. So we start our week making like a local and liming on the beach as much as we can.

It turns out we have arrived in low-season so many of the restaurants and shops are closed much of the time. More time to lime then.

Eating out is pretty rustic, you eat what they catch that morning so restaurant menus consist of three choices - fish (usually tuna or Mahi-Mahi), chicken and of course, conch. Everything is jerk-spiced and served with rice and some kind of 'hard food' like plantain or fried bananas. We quickly learn that the fish is the best bet, there's only so much conch you can eat. 

Bequia is a fantastic place to relax, but we've also chosen to stay there for a very specific resason, it is relatively close to the Tobago Cays. The Tobago Cays are a group of five uninhabited islands that are now nature reserve, protected for their natural beauty, pristine reefs and wildlife. We had hoped to visit them on a lovely peaceful sailing boat but then we discover that the boat is being repaired that week. There is only one option, being that we don't have a yacht to get there ourselves, to go by speedboat. It is apparently the worst way to get to the Tobago Cays - the crossing takes and hour and a half and can get very choppy indeedy . But we are undeterred. Heck, I was vomiting for most of the Inca Trail I'm sure I can handle a bumpy speedbaot ride. 

Captain Nolan's boat can be heard before it arrives at the jetty to pick us up - it is gleaming white, blaring reggae at an ear-bleeding level with three huge speedboat motors on the back. Captain Nolan is wearing a lot of gold jewellery and he tells us he has made his own special rum punch for us. I'm not sure how that will go down with the seasickness tablets we've just taken but we climb aboard anyway.

As soon as we are out in the open water Captain Nolan cranks the speed up. We seem to by flying across the sea and it would feel very cool indeed if we were not getting soaked by sizeable waves crashing over the boat. The boat seems to jump into the air and smack back down again with every wave. It is a wild ride but our captain seems unpeturbed, cranks up the sound system and away we go. We sail by Union and Canouan. It's easy to spot Mustique as we hoon past - a private island, the hilltops are peppered with gleaming mansions owned by Mick Jagger, Bryan Adams and the bloke who owns Nike. Lavish indeed.

An hour and a half later we arrived, intact, at the Tobago Cays. They look exacly like the idyllic desert islands that are in all the pictures. Blinding white sand surrounding tiny islands that are topped with a few artfully placed palm trees at the centre. The water is a brilliant aqua-marine and so clear you can see straight to the bottom. The reefs around the islands are all protected so the snorkelling is amazing - big brain corals and a myriad of rainbow-coloured fish. One areas is a turtle sanctuary for Leatherback turtles. It doesn't take long to spot the Leatherbacks, gracefully cruising along the bottom or popping their heads up out of the water, they are massive. We spot one that is probably about the size of a pub-garden table. We follow them together for ages and count six in all - a very special moment indeed. Before we go we decide to swim out to one of the desert islands for a true shipwrecked moment. Then it's back on board to sample some of Captain Nolan's homemade rum punch, which, after a morning snorkelling on the cays, tasted amazing.

Next and final stop, Tobago, as in Trinidad and Tobago, nothing to do with the Tobago Cays, confusing.

Lots of love

Beth xxx

The Sunshine State?

Departing Long Island and arriving in Miami was a bit of a culture shock - after spending 5 solitary days on a fairly deserted island and then suddenly arriving in a massive city with sixteen-lane freeways, it takes us about half an hour to find our way out of the airport. It is also hammering down with rain. Not what anything you read about Florida leads you to believe. Turns out it is not always the Sunshine state. Pretty hurricany, to be honest. We managed to glimpse Miami beach before the heavens open - it looks like it could be an awesome place to hang out on a sunny day - there are colourful life guard towers, cool beach bars and cabanas. I manage to get one picture before it starts bucketing it down. There is only one thing for it, to seek refuge in Bloomingdales and indulge in some commercialism.

 We are staying in the Art Deco district on Ocean Drive and the buildings are spectacular, the art deco architecture is beautifully preserved, they are all painted in strong marine and yellow shades or pastel pinks and fronted by palm trees. It is like being on a film set just strolling along Ocean Drive. Women are of course, roller blading in bikinis and everyone is driving convertible Mustangs. It is out and out glamour, a sightseeing experience in itself and so we stop for a ridiculously pink and overpriced Miami Heat cocktail on Ocean Drive  and people-watch. 

Now we are back in the USA we are determined to have an amazing American steak. It takes some researching but we eventually settle on Prime 112, a famous steakhouse on Ocean Drive. Apparently you usually have to book about 3 weeks in advance, unless you are Beyonce and Jay-Z. Thankfully, perhaps because it is a Wednesday and the weather is shocking, they can indeed squeeze us in. It is full of guys who probably drive Mustangs and models who probably roller-blade by day. Seems to be steak on the menu for the guys and liquid refreshment in the form of martinis for the models. 

We order a 30oz rib-eye steak to share. It arrives on an enormous platter and I start to get the meat sweats just looking at it but my God, it is the best steak that I have ever eaten. Melt in the mouth and perfectly cooked. It is also exciting because Stef is convinced James Cameron is seated at a table next to us. Until 'James' starts speaking French like a true Frenchman. So we are forced to accept perhaps it isn't he of Titanic fame. Merde.

Next day, we are determined to drive to the Florida Keys, and even perhaps make it as far as Key West for a slice of Key Lime pie. 

The Florida Keys actually start a good hour or so out of Miami, and they are a strange wonder indeed - a very long chain of small islands that are now connected by one long road and a series of bridges, including the famous Seven Mile bridge, which, as the name implies, is 7 miles long. I would imagine that it is a beautiful drive down to Key West, with the ocean of Florida Bay on one side and the Gulf of Mexico on the other, lapping the edges of the road. But when the rain is lashing down so much that the car is aqua-planing and you can't see more than about 3 metres in front of the windscreen, you could be anywhere. 

The rain is so bad that all the Key Lime pie bakeries and shops, all of which, of course, claim to serve the best pie on the Keys, are shut. We debate whether it is worth spending 3 hours driving in a thunderstorm to Key West. Then decide that we have nothing better to do and no where to stay that night so we may as well press on and continue the quest for the pie. 

By some miracle, as we drive off Seven Mile bridge, the rain stops and the clouds part. The sun sparkles off the sea on either side of us, we can see loads of tiny islands stretching ahead into the distance. The Keys are a truly amazing sight. We make it to Key West just before sunset, it is a very chic town, the main streets are lined with high-end boutiques and swish hotels. One of which is serving Key Lime pie. Which we washed down with a couple of glasses of wine and watching the sun set, exactly are you are meant to do in the Keys. Then we have to drive back as far away from Key West as we can until we can find a motel we can afford to stay in. 

Next day we get in the car at dawn and are very excited because the sun is shining and we have planned to spend the whole day exploring the Everglades. I am desperate to go on one of those big boats with the huge propellers on the back that glide across the Everglades, as seen in Flipper and Gentle Ben. It turns out they are called airboats so we manage to book on an trip that afternoon.

In the morning, we have planned to go on a 15 mile bike ride through Shark Valley, along on a special trail through the Everglades National Park because we have heard it's a great way to spot wild alligators. We're hoping we might see one or two.  

As we start riding, the sheer size of the Everglades hits me, it is apparently 1.5 million acres and is often described as a 'river of grass'. It's not hard to see why, the sky reflects of marshy water that is covered by dense grasses, as far as the eye can see. It doesn't take long for us to spot some gators. We see a few eyes emerging from the water at the side of the bike trail after we've been riding a few minutes. We stop to take photos, apparently, you only need to panic if gators lunge at you. Then I'm not sure what else you could do but panic, so the advice is that it's just best to hope that doesn't happen. Fair play. As we ride deeper into the park, we start seeing alligators everywhere. It's amazing, and slightly disconcerting having to cycle around 2m-long beasts that are lying on the trail, basking in the sun. We see big ones, baby ones, swimming ones, some that are walking along the trail. It is one of the most fascinating experiences - there are no other Everglades in the world, it has such a unique eco-system where alligators are king and in such plentiful populations, they are everywhere. We can't resist taking photos of each other cycling past alligators. Some people choose to walk the trail but I was glad we were on bikes, just in case we needed to make a quick getaway. We also see lots of herons and Anhingas, birds who warm their wings in the sun. There are also lots of fish and turtles in the shallow water, gator-bait indeed.

That afternoon we arrive at the airboat mooring. Our captain explains that airboats can go up to 60 mph and they are literally air-propelled over the grass and water of the Everglades by the giant propeller at the back. I practically shriek with excitement as we get on board the boat, it is just like the one in Gentle Ben. And do they go quickly, it feels as if we are flying over the wilderness, big alligators cruise in the waters as we scoot along. A points it just looks like the boat is cruising over grass. It's a breathtaking sight - herons and other birds soar around us in the sky and there is nothing but water, sky and grass for miles. 

It is obvious why the Everglades got their name, they do indeed seem to go on forever and it was amazing to see such a bizarre environment and eco-system up close and teeming with life. A great way to end our adventure in Florida. I think we finally saw the sunshine state at its sunny best.

Until the next time, from Bequia in the Grenadines...

Love Beth xxx

Bahamas & Blue Holes

These days it is apparently becoming trickier than ever to experience the 'real' Bahamas. We discovered this for ourselves when, because we were unable to get a connecting flight from Nassau to Long Island on the same day, we were forced to spend a night in Nassau. Located on New Providence Island, Nassau was probably once very beautiful, but it is now over run with mega-resorts, high-rises and Starbucks. There is no escape - even the beaches come at a price. As we found out when we tried to stroll along Cable Beach (famed to be the nicest beach on New Providence) and were promptly asked to leave by a security guard. We had accidentally stumbled onto beach owned by a swanky hotel - Sandals Royal Bahamian, in case anyone is interested.

I struggle with the concept of beaches being 'owned'. We calmly asked if it would be permitted for us to walk along the waterline to the next beach and we promised to leave only footprints. After all, Sandals can't possibly claim to own the waves lapping the shore too? Apparently they can, and we were told to go. Not the chilled out Bahamian vibes we were hoping for. 

So we were both delighted to board a tiny plane with just 20 seats the following day that would take us (via San Salvador) to Long Island, in the outer Exumas. It's only an hour's flight but what a journey- the ocean is what can only be described as Bahamas Blue, there are tiny cays dotted about and pristine-looking reefs.

Landing at Long Island airport we literally can't stop grinning because it is little more than a yellow shed on a runway. We practically have to lift our own bags from the hold. It is remote alright and exactly what we'd been hoping for.

Our first encounter with the real Bahamas is with a man called Mr T from whom we have arranged to hire a car for the 5 days of our stay. We'll need one because Long Island, as the name suggests, is 80 miles long and 4 miles wide at its widest point. So there is some exploring to do. Mr T gives us the keys to a battered-looking Toyota, we hand him some cash and he tells us to leave the car at the airport when we leave. No forms to fill out, no fuss. Magic.

Long Island, like many Bahamian islands, had a windward-side which is battered by the Atlantic. And a leeward side, gently lapped by the Caribbean sea. We are staying in a little studio on the leeward side. It is fringed by swaying palms and the water is a glassy turquiose as calm as a swimming pool. The lady who we are renting the studio from tells us that Long Island has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, and we will probably be the only people on them.

This turns out to be entirely true. We head to Gordons, at the South end of the island. It takes about an hour and a half to drive there, we pass through settlements, many of which are named after families who live on the island. The settlements are a scant few houses here and there. Apart from goats we hardly pass another car. Just loads and loads of churches. A staggering amount in fact. Sunday is a big deal in the Bahamas.

Gordons beach is mind-blowingly beautiful. A long, pristine curve of alabaster sand, crystal clear millpond-still water and not another soul in sight. We keep wondering when everyone is going to turn up to claim a patch of sand on this postcard-perfect beach. But no one does. There are no beach bars, no hotels, nothing. It is the most peaceful place I have ever visited.

All the beaches on Long Island are like this. On the Atlantic side, there beaches are pounded by powerful waves and there are craggy, imposing limestone rock formations. One particularly stunning beach we are tipped off about is known by the locals as Compass Rose. Sheltered from the Atlantic by a perfect semi-circle of rock creating a calm natural pool and bordered by sand dunes it is secluded and amazing.

Cape Santa Maria Beach, at the North end of the island has a hotel at one end but there seemed to be no one staying there, we had the white sand to ourselves. It is no wonder that Christopher Columbus apparently said Long Island was one of the most beautiful places he'd ever seen. It's a tough one to top.

There are lots of little restaurants lining the one main road, many of which seem to be set up on peoples' front porches. We eat a lot of conch - meat from giant conch shells which are in plentiful supply in the Bahamas. Conch fritters, cracked conch, conch salad, conch burgers... you name it, they conch it.

Everyone is also so friendly and helpful. We go to a Rake n' Shake night at a bar, at 5pm people are already dancing to the Rake n' Shake band who are strumming what looks like cheesegraters and a rusty saw along to a distinctly Bahamian beat, and of course, a few Bob Marley classics. As we sit down to sip heavy-on-the-rum Bahama Mamas, people come over to ask us who we are, how long we are staying for and what we think of the island. I don't know where the toilets are and a blind lady offers to show me, taking my hand and leading me outside.

 Next day, when our car gets a flat tyre on a remote stretch of road and we are jacking it up, a guy pulls up next to us, jumps out of his car and helps us change the tyre. So we return the island spirit by giving local kids, who hitch hike everywhere, lifts. They are very polite, calling us Sir and Ma'am and we have to try not to giggle.

Long Island is also home to a natural phenomenon called Deans Blue Hole. At 663ft (202m) it is the world's deepest blue hole, a limestone cavern plunging deep into the sea bed. Viewed from the cliffs above it is awe-inspiring and beautiful - a white sandbank that is in ankle-deep water suddenly plunges off into a perfectly circular hole of a deep midnight blue. You can sense the depth just by looking at it.

There are signs near the hole warning people that the drop-off is very sudden. There are also three gravestones, where apparently, three women were swept out into the hole and drowned. It really is a mysterious place. Unpeturbed we decide to take a dip. Snorkelling over the hole you can really appreciate how deep it suddenly gets, I've never seen anything like it. The power and weight of the water beneath me was really apparent. 

Stefan is also fortunate enough to have family who live on Long Island. His cousin Will and his wife Britta have made the very sensible decision to live there for several months a year. Lucky, lucky them. But they also live there for a very practical reason too - Will, a champion free diver, currently holds the world record for no-fins freediving to the unfathomable depth of 101m. Wow. He lives on Long Island so he can train at Deans Blue Hole, which, as the world's deepest swimming pool, is kind of like his office. And Britta's too - she is a yoga instructor specialising in teaching breathing techniques and yoga to the free diving community.

To Stef's joy, he managed to contact Will through good old facebook as as luck would have it, he and Britta were still on the island because 

Will is currently training for his next world record attempt this month.They very kindly invited us over to their house for drinks and a delicious home cooked dinner. They are a really fun couple, it was great to meet them and learn a bit more about the island culture, they love Long Island and it is not difficult to see why. Britta's grandparents also live there too and they popped in to say hi to us, great to meet the extended family all round. 

To me, it seems Long Island has the perfect blend of tangible culture, some of the most perfect beaches I've ever seen, fun, if you want it, and absolute tranquility if you don't. It takes a little bit more effort to get there than most Bahamian destinations but we will definitely be back for another slice of paradise, soon I hope.

If anyone would like to check out Will's world record 101m free dive at Deans Blue Hole on Long Island, here's the link: http://bit.ly/16EC4XM

Next stop, exploring the vices Miami has to offer...

Until the next time, 

Love Beth x