Bahamas & Blue Holes

These days it is apparently becoming trickier than ever to experience the 'real' Bahamas. We discovered this for ourselves when, because we were unable to get a connecting flight from Nassau to Long Island on the same day, we were forced to spend a night in Nassau. Located on New Providence Island, Nassau was probably once very beautiful, but it is now over run with mega-resorts, high-rises and Starbucks. There is no escape - even the beaches come at a price. As we found out when we tried to stroll along Cable Beach (famed to be the nicest beach on New Providence) and were promptly asked to leave by a security guard. We had accidentally stumbled onto beach owned by a swanky hotel - Sandals Royal Bahamian, in case anyone is interested.

I struggle with the concept of beaches being 'owned'. We calmly asked if it would be permitted for us to walk along the waterline to the next beach and we promised to leave only footprints. After all, Sandals can't possibly claim to own the waves lapping the shore too? Apparently they can, and we were told to go. Not the chilled out Bahamian vibes we were hoping for. 

So we were both delighted to board a tiny plane with just 20 seats the following day that would take us (via San Salvador) to Long Island, in the outer Exumas. It's only an hour's flight but what a journey- the ocean is what can only be described as Bahamas Blue, there are tiny cays dotted about and pristine-looking reefs.

Landing at Long Island airport we literally can't stop grinning because it is little more than a yellow shed on a runway. We practically have to lift our own bags from the hold. It is remote alright and exactly what we'd been hoping for.

Our first encounter with the real Bahamas is with a man called Mr T from whom we have arranged to hire a car for the 5 days of our stay. We'll need one because Long Island, as the name suggests, is 80 miles long and 4 miles wide at its widest point. So there is some exploring to do. Mr T gives us the keys to a battered-looking Toyota, we hand him some cash and he tells us to leave the car at the airport when we leave. No forms to fill out, no fuss. Magic.

Long Island, like many Bahamian islands, had a windward-side which is battered by the Atlantic. And a leeward side, gently lapped by the Caribbean sea. We are staying in a little studio on the leeward side. It is fringed by swaying palms and the water is a glassy turquiose as calm as a swimming pool. The lady who we are renting the studio from tells us that Long Island has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, and we will probably be the only people on them.

This turns out to be entirely true. We head to Gordons, at the South end of the island. It takes about an hour and a half to drive there, we pass through settlements, many of which are named after families who live on the island. The settlements are a scant few houses here and there. Apart from goats we hardly pass another car. Just loads and loads of churches. A staggering amount in fact. Sunday is a big deal in the Bahamas.

Gordons beach is mind-blowingly beautiful. A long, pristine curve of alabaster sand, crystal clear millpond-still water and not another soul in sight. We keep wondering when everyone is going to turn up to claim a patch of sand on this postcard-perfect beach. But no one does. There are no beach bars, no hotels, nothing. It is the most peaceful place I have ever visited.

All the beaches on Long Island are like this. On the Atlantic side, there beaches are pounded by powerful waves and there are craggy, imposing limestone rock formations. One particularly stunning beach we are tipped off about is known by the locals as Compass Rose. Sheltered from the Atlantic by a perfect semi-circle of rock creating a calm natural pool and bordered by sand dunes it is secluded and amazing.

Cape Santa Maria Beach, at the North end of the island has a hotel at one end but there seemed to be no one staying there, we had the white sand to ourselves. It is no wonder that Christopher Columbus apparently said Long Island was one of the most beautiful places he'd ever seen. It's a tough one to top.

There are lots of little restaurants lining the one main road, many of which seem to be set up on peoples' front porches. We eat a lot of conch - meat from giant conch shells which are in plentiful supply in the Bahamas. Conch fritters, cracked conch, conch salad, conch burgers... you name it, they conch it.

Everyone is also so friendly and helpful. We go to a Rake n' Shake night at a bar, at 5pm people are already dancing to the Rake n' Shake band who are strumming what looks like cheesegraters and a rusty saw along to a distinctly Bahamian beat, and of course, a few Bob Marley classics. As we sit down to sip heavy-on-the-rum Bahama Mamas, people come over to ask us who we are, how long we are staying for and what we think of the island. I don't know where the toilets are and a blind lady offers to show me, taking my hand and leading me outside.

 Next day, when our car gets a flat tyre on a remote stretch of road and we are jacking it up, a guy pulls up next to us, jumps out of his car and helps us change the tyre. So we return the island spirit by giving local kids, who hitch hike everywhere, lifts. They are very polite, calling us Sir and Ma'am and we have to try not to giggle.

Long Island is also home to a natural phenomenon called Deans Blue Hole. At 663ft (202m) it is the world's deepest blue hole, a limestone cavern plunging deep into the sea bed. Viewed from the cliffs above it is awe-inspiring and beautiful - a white sandbank that is in ankle-deep water suddenly plunges off into a perfectly circular hole of a deep midnight blue. You can sense the depth just by looking at it.

There are signs near the hole warning people that the drop-off is very sudden. There are also three gravestones, where apparently, three women were swept out into the hole and drowned. It really is a mysterious place. Unpeturbed we decide to take a dip. Snorkelling over the hole you can really appreciate how deep it suddenly gets, I've never seen anything like it. The power and weight of the water beneath me was really apparent. 

Stefan is also fortunate enough to have family who live on Long Island. His cousin Will and his wife Britta have made the very sensible decision to live there for several months a year. Lucky, lucky them. But they also live there for a very practical reason too - Will, a champion free diver, currently holds the world record for no-fins freediving to the unfathomable depth of 101m. Wow. He lives on Long Island so he can train at Deans Blue Hole, which, as the world's deepest swimming pool, is kind of like his office. And Britta's too - she is a yoga instructor specialising in teaching breathing techniques and yoga to the free diving community.

To Stef's joy, he managed to contact Will through good old facebook as as luck would have it, he and Britta were still on the island because 

Will is currently training for his next world record attempt this month.They very kindly invited us over to their house for drinks and a delicious home cooked dinner. They are a really fun couple, it was great to meet them and learn a bit more about the island culture, they love Long Island and it is not difficult to see why. Britta's grandparents also live there too and they popped in to say hi to us, great to meet the extended family all round. 

To me, it seems Long Island has the perfect blend of tangible culture, some of the most perfect beaches I've ever seen, fun, if you want it, and absolute tranquility if you don't. It takes a little bit more effort to get there than most Bahamian destinations but we will definitely be back for another slice of paradise, soon I hope.

If anyone would like to check out Will's world record 101m free dive at Deans Blue Hole on Long Island, here's the link: http://bit.ly/16EC4XM

Next stop, exploring the vices Miami has to offer...

Until the next time, 

Love Beth x