Breathless in Cusco

Landing at Cusco airport after 36 hours of travelling (it's a loonnng way from LA via Mexico City and Lima), I wasn't sure how the altitude would affect me. At a dizzying 11,000ft the city is nestled in a valley high up in the Peruvian Andes. I've never been up that high before, but it didn't take me long to feel the effects. I felt out of breath standing motionless beside the baggage carousel. 

Even sitting in a taxi on the way into town I was panting and felt as if I'd just been running. A very strange sensation indeed.

Our taxi driver informs us that drinking the Peruvian national drink, coca tea, is a great way to combat the nauseating effects of the altitude. 

Coca tea is made from coca leaves, the very same leaves that are smuggled by the truckload over the Colombian border to make cocaine. Apparently when the Spanish conquered Cusco and overthrew the Incas they encouraged enslaved workers to drink coca tea or chew the leaves because it made them more productive, less tired and more chipper all round. Probably peps you up more in the mornings than your avergage cup of Twinings that's for sure.

As we enter the old town of Cusco I am breathless for another reason - it is truly beautiful. It was once an Inca city complete with temples decorated in gold and silver. But when the Spanish conquistadors arrived they looted the place, tore down the temples and built grand cathedrals and churches everywhere. 

Now it's all terracotta rooftops, quaint plazas and arcades. It looks very European indeed. But the city is surrounded by Inca temples and ruins so it's an ecletic mash-up of Spanish and Inca culture. It's a popular area with tourists, mainly because it is the place most people begin the Inca trail. Before doing so it's advised to spend a few days in Cusco getting aclimatised to the altitude so we've got four nights here to do just that and explore.

After a quick cup of coca tea at the hostel (it tastes as you'd imagine, like leaves that have been steeped in hot water) and armed with my very ropey GCSE Spanish, we set off. Thankfully I can say 'I'm English and I don't speak Spanish' which comes in very handy and I can also order two beers, so we are all set. I also remember some other useful phrases such as 'I like sailing' (handy up a mountain) and 'Where is the library'. So we've got everything covered.

Cusco is stunning - we spend the first day exploring the city visiting the Inca Museum which boasts the largest collection of Inca artefacts in Peru. The main Cathedral is a fairly sombre terracotta building from the outside but inside it's a treasure trove of gold and silver walls and ceilings.

We visit the local market - it is buzzing and you can buy anything you want from alpaca gloves to dried llama heads to snack on. We make the mistake of wandering down the meat aisle to discover this. There are towers of dried, roasted guinea pigs - a delicacy in Peru, and other offal and offcuts that I won't mention. Suffice to say that by the time I'd reached the end of the aisle I was publicaly retching (nice!) while a few elderly Peruvian stallholders looked at me like I was crackers. How not to blend in. I feel even worse when I read in one of the guide books that one restaurant in Cusco serves up Guinea pig 'wings' and Guinea Wellington. Apparently it's served in a pastry case that looks like a hutch (ok I made that up).

On day two we decide to take a 10km hike to explore four Inca forts and temples on the outskirts of town. It's a short taxi ride up the hill followed by a 500m descent so good practice to see how we'll fair with the altitude on the Inca trail. The temples are very impressive - I hate to reference Indiana Jones here but I will - I kept expecting a huge boulder to start rolling towards us or something.

The temples really are a feat of engineering - with waterfalls and huge surrounding walls that are metres thick. It's crazy to wonder how they got the huge rocks they needed to build them into position in the first place. The most impressive fortress we sas was called Sacsayhuaman - there is even an Inca altar and throne. It's all very overwhelming and a culture I know little about so I find it all fascinating.

That night we reward ourselves with a classic Peruvian meal - I try alpaca steak - very tasty, a bit like veal. Stef opted for a local delicacy called Cuy, I'll  let him explain to anyone who is interested what that involves later. But it warranted a trip to the kitchens to watch it being cooked. The Peruvian people are very friendly and welcoming indeed - they are really keen to teach you all about their culture.

But the time for exploring is over because at 4.30am tomorrow we are finally due to begin the Inca Trail. I'm very nervous indeed. Although we have trained hard I'm not sure how the altitude will affect me when we reach the highest point at 12,300ft and it is a gruelling 4 day hike and we'll be sleeping in tents for three nights. Unfortunately I have also come down with a case of what can only be described as 'Peruvian tummy'. Perhaps it was the alpaca. Who knows. But I am currently laid up in bed, hoping and praying that I will be feeling better by tomorrow and the big off. Stef, of course, feels great. Maybe he can carry me all the way to Macchu Picchu. Wish us luck and I'll update when we have come through the other side...

Love Beth xxx