Some say it was a palace or summer house for the Inca king. Others think it was a place of study or university - because there are compass shaped rocks, places to observe the stars and the sun and of course scores of farming terraces that could have been designed for argricultural experimentation. Other people think it was a simply a small city because there are houses and what looks like a jail. There are also tombs indicating people obviously were buried in Machu Picchu when they died.
The first thing that strikes me about Machu Picchu is the sheer size of it - we've seen some impressive and large Inca ruins on the walk but Machu Picchu is massive, clinging precariously to a mountain ridge between two peaks called Machu Picchu (Old Mountain) and Huyana Pichu (Young Mountain). Below the ruins the terraces fan downwards towards the valley below.
Despite its size it is easy to see why the place stayed hidden for centuries. Tucked away in the High Jungle, unless you knew Machu Picchu was there, you'd never find it.
Perhaps that's why it survived the Spanish invasion of Peru - in the 15th century, when the Inca King heard the Spanish had conquered Cusco, he ordered Machu Picchu (which was still being built) to be abandoned. And so it was left a ghost town, covered by the jungle for centuries until an American called Hiram Bingham discovered the ruins about 100 years ago. Even now there are still parts of Machu Picchu that have yet to be discovered.
I felt the best place to view Machu Picchu, once we had trekked down from the Sun Gate, was actually on a rocky outcrop near a building called the guards tower. It is the classic viewpoint you see in many of the photos and it is as mindblowing as you might expect. By this point the sun is shining, the mist has cleared. Our group spends ages on the rock taking photos and congratulating each other.
It's easy to tell the people who have just completed the Inca Trail - they are all on a natural (or perhaps coca induced) high, plus they are filthy, having walked for 4 days and endured extreme physical challenges to arrive the Inca way.
The day trippers from Cusco mark a stark contrast - they are in huge tour groups wandering around the ruins and feasting on 'Machu Picchu burgers' (what else) in the cafeteria outside.
We couldn't help resenting them a bit - of course, the Inca Trail isn't for everyone but we couldn't help wondering if they really appreciated Machu Picchu like the people who had lived and breathed it for four days. But perhaps after completing the trail I had a false sense of entitlement, coupled with a smattering of envy for their freshly washed hair and clothes.
Our guide shows us round the ruins and gives us his version of what he believes to be the story behind them. The masonry is amazing - so precise, the Inca building bricks are cut to perfection and it's mind boggling to wonder how they did it. But again, no one knows. We see what was believed to be the King's bedroom and his temples. His observatory for star gazing. Courtyards and the quarry where the stones were cut.
Later, Stef and Steven decide they want to climb Huyana Picchu, the famous vertical peak towering over the ruins. The view from the top is meant to be awesome but I don't have the energy - it is the steepest climb on the trail, part of it involves pulling yourself up on a rope, climbing floating steps and squeezing through narrow tunnels. It takes them 40 mins to reach the top and although it is a bit hairy, there are more ruins at the summit to explore and a postcard perfect view over Machu Picchu and the Andes.
I'm just content to wander around the ruins - there is so much to see and a day doesn't feel long enough.
At the risk of sounding too much like a hippy (I appreciate in the last post I go on about leaving coca leaves for Mother Nature, bear with me, it was an emotional few days) the rumour is that in a few years it might not be possible to trek the Inca trail anymore. It is already closed for a couple of months a year for maintenance and apparently the Peruvian government are concerned about erosion of the trail so are considering closing it to trekkers.
We therefore feel lucky to have been able to do the walk, see the incredible sights along the way and celebrate the end game arriving through the Sun Gate at Machu Picchu. It truly felt as if our journey there was just as important as the final destination since it was such an epic experience (hippy ramblings over!)
As a thank you, Stef leaves his hiking boots (with some coca leaves tucked in the toe) for the porters.
Before we leave the ruins our guide Reynaldo turns to us all and says;
"Look around you, this is Peru, welcome."
We are all in agreement that Peru is indeed an incredible country.
I can't wait for the next stage in our Peruvian adventure - a trip north to Iquitos and the Amazon jungle...
Until the next time,
Love Beth xxx
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