What Happens in Vegas

Even though it's 6am and I've only managed an hour's sleep, seeing dawn break over the Nevada desert from the plane is a spectacular sight - craggy, arid mountains and nothing else as far as the eye can see. Suddenly a glittering city appears in the middle of nowhere. It could only be Las Vegas.

As a Vegas novice, I had no idea what to expect. I think I spent the entire weekend with my mouth hanging open - I have never experienced anything like it. There were casinos and slot machines in the airport - maybe the urge for a quick post-flight gamble is too much for some to resist since the slots were rammed at 7am.

On the bus ride from the airport the monolith casinos along Las Vegas Boulevard, or as everyone calls it, The Strip, are as insane as they look in the movies - we saw a mini-Paris, complete with a third-scale model of the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe. We passed The Venetian, a startlingly accurate replica of St Mark's Square complete with canals and actual gondolas. And of course, New York, New York, with it's mini Grand Central Station and Empire State Building. I can't believe what I'm seeing.

As we check in to our hotel the receptionist informs us it's Mad March in Vegas - Easter weekend - meaning the city will be pumping and most of the hotels at capacity. We discover the reality of 'Mad March' only too quickly when we get to our room - the walls are shaking because, like something out of a cheesy film, there is what can only be described as a massive frat-boy party going on next door - blaring music, drunken shouting, singing and, we think, rapping? It is only 9am. Two hours later the party is still in full swing - and we realise, if it's this like this mid-morning, it's only going to get worse.

So we head down to reception again. The receptionist offers us an upgrade, drawling: 'I think you're gonna like this room'.

Seconds later we are whoosing up to the 27th floor. Opening the door we suddenly find ourselves standing in a huge living room, complete with a wrap-around sunken sofa, black marble dining table and a full-size kitchen in one corner. Floor to ceiling windows give an amazing view of the city over The Strip. I momentarily panic because I can't see a bed and open one of the doors off the living room. There's a gargantuan bedroom - with a huge bed, day bed, in case a normal bed isn't enough, and a jacuzzi in one corner, leading to an epic bathroom. There are TVs in the bathroom, kitchen and by the jacuzzi. It's decorated in red and black leather and it's three-times the size of our old flat in Manly. And at that point it hits me - this isn't a room, it's a suite. P-Diddy would probably feel at home here. And I lose the plot. In a deeply uncool manner I start shrieking 'Oh my god is this for reeeaaaaal?' like some kind of chav.

Stef is rather more laid back. Until he pushes a button on the wall and a projecter screen descends over the floor to ceiling windows. Yes, our very own cinema. By this point we've only been in Vegas three hours and and we are already feeling like we're living the dream. Once we've calmed down we make a mental note to shake the hands of those frat boys - after all, getting the suite was all thanks to them.

Feeling dazed we wander onto the Strip, it's baking and I am overwhelmed by the abundance of everything - neon, music, flesh, traffic. People are swigging Yarderitas - yes, like a yard of ale, in Vegas you can get a yard of Margarita\ cocktail and carry it around with you all day to sip.

We watch the fountain show outside the Bellagio casino. We explore the Venetian - the interior has a fake sky that is lit to mimic a permanent twilight, 24 hours a day. Brides are wandering around in wedding dresses, pausing to gamble at the slots. There are slot machines everywhere. We get lost. High roller tables, craps, baccarat and a million other card games I have never heard of are available to those willing to take a punt. Cccktail waitresses in impossiby teeny dresses are carrying trays of drinks. And everyone is having the time of their lives. It's like a Disneyland for adults. The energy is palpable. But one thing is obvious, everyone is here to gamble. We gave it a go - but that's a story for tomorrow...

Love Beth xx